The old Norcineria art - The old Norcineria art

The art of norcineria, the processing of pork to create cured meats, owes its name to the town of Norcia, famous for having refined pork processing techniques.

The tradition has very ancient roots: the very name of the pig seems to derive from the goddess Maia, who embodied the awakening of nature and abundance, and one of the earliest descriptions of a meal composed entirely of pork dishes appears in Homer’s Odyssey.

A central figure in this millennia-old is the norcino, whose original meaning as an “inhabitant of Norcia” evolved to identify a true profession. Between the 12th and 17th centuries, this cradt not only became firmly establishes in Umbria, but also spread to other major cities such as Rome, Florence and Bologna, where a number of guilds began to be emerge.

A curious fact: in the Middle Ages, norcini occasionally performed minor surgical procedures, partly overlapping with the practices of doctors from the School of Surgery of the Abbey of St. Eutizio in Preci, renowned throughout Europe.

Today, norcini are the custodians of a craft that transforms various parts of the pig into prized cured meats. The products of norcineria continue to win everyone over with their unique flavours and traditional appeal.

Prosciutto of Norcia, which has carried the Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) designation since 1997, is one of the iconic trademarks of Umbrian norcineria. It is produced exclusively in the Valnerina at an altitude of over 500 metres, in the municipalities of Norcia, Preci, Cascia, Monteleone di Spoleto and Poggiodomo where, thanks to the unique local climate, the ham develops its characteristic and unmistakable flavour, savoury yet delicate, that starts from the careful selection of raw materials through the final product, preserving its authenticity.

The quality and characteristics of this production are ensured by adherence to a specific set of regulations, governing its signature pear shape, the correct percentage of fat, and a minimum weight of 8.5 kg.

Its unmistakable flavour is achieved through a unique salting process, followed by the delicate “sugnatura” phase, an essential step to protect the selected leg of ham and preserve its internal tenderness during the aging period, which lasts at least 12 months.

Prosciutto di Norcia PGI pairs wonderfully with harmonious wines featuring balanced tannins that enhance its flavour without overpowering its aromatic notes. Examples include an elegant Torgiano Rosso or a robust Rosso di Montefalco DOC, without forgetting wines that are perhaps less well-known but equally  delightful such as a Sangiovese dei Colli Martani.

Capocollo is another excellent product of Umbrian norcineria, obtained by processing one of the most prized parts of the pig, located between the neck and the beginning of the loin. This cut is notable for its distinctive fat marbling, which lends the meat a delicate marbling texture, ensuring tenderness and a unique flavour.

Every slice of capocollo offers a perfect harmony between the fatty and lean parts, transforming each bite into a delightful tasting experience.

Perfect enjoyed on its own or with a simple slice of bread, capocollo also pairs well with cured meats and cheeses on a charcuterie board. It is also a star of the traditional savoury Easter breakfast, where its flavour perfectly complements that of cheese bread.

Capocollo pairs excellently with a structured yet not overly tannic wine such as a Rosso di Torgiano DOC. Its pleasant softness and cherry notes enhance the sweetness of capocollo and its intense flavour. Those who prefer a lighter contrast can opt for a Trebbiano Spoletino, an Umbrian white wine that balances the intensity of capocollo without overwhelming it.

Lombetto is one of the most prized products of the norcineria tradition, so much so that it could be defined as the noble cousin of capocollo. This cured meat is obtained by processing the pig's loin muscle located behind the neck, one of the most tender parts of the animal.

After being trimmed to remove any imperfections, the cut undergoes a salting phase before being cured. The loin is distinguished by its leanness: its slices have a vivid, uniform red colour, surrounded by a thin white fat edge. Its flavour is delicate, with a soft, firm texture: each slice melts pleasantly in the mouth!

Lombetto pairs well with wines that enhance its delicate taste such as a Umbrian Merlot, known for its soft and fruity tannins. It can also be accompanied by a white wine such as a Grechetto di Todi, which offers a velvety flavour ranging from dry to slightly sweet, with a mildly bitter and fruity aftertaste.

The barbozzo, also called “barbozza” or “barbazza”, is a norcineria product made from the pig’s cheek, distinguished by light lean streaks and a portion of prized fat.

After being carefully trimmed to achieve its characteristic triangular shape, the cut is first salted, then washed and seasoned with wine and garlic to impart its characteristic flavour. Finally, it is coated with ground pepper.

Barbozzo can enhance any dish with its bold flavour: it can be used to elevate fried eggs, combined with ricotta and sausage for a richer version of pasta alla norcina, or to add flavour to Umbrian soups such as scafata, a traditional springtime stew made with fava beans, chard, spring onions, celery and wild fennel.

With its intense and rich flavour, barbozzo pairs perfectly with Ciliegiolo, a smooth wine that balances the saltiness of the meat with its fruity notes. A Sangiovese vinified in purity is also an ideal choice: floral aromas and delicate fruity notes merge into a pleasantly acidic wine with a that balances the fattiness of the barbozzo, further emphasising its unique flavour with every bite.

Coglioni di Mulo are a speciality produced exclusively in the Norcia area, with a characteristic oval shape that has earned it the name by which it is known, though the name can be misleading. This cured meat is always made from pork that, after being finely ground, stuffed into a natural casing, and aged, develops a bold flavour.

Its uniqueness comes from the piece of pork fat called “lard”, embedded at the centre of the mixture, which allows it to remain pleasantly tender even after the aging process.

This cured meat pairs perfectly with wines of complex structure that can enhance its robust flavours, such as a Montefalco Rosso Riserva, a structured and elegant wine with a remarkable gustatory and aromatic persistence. For those who prefer a less intense option, Gamay del Trasimeno offers floral and spicy notes that lighten the pronounced flavour of the cured meat.

Ciauscolo is probably the least known norcineria product at the national level, produced only in the Norcia area and some parts of the Marche region, primarily by small local producers.

The origin of its curious name probably derives from ci(a)busculum, meaning “small food” or “snack”. Ciauscolo is in fact a type of soft sausage designed to be spread, especially on bruschetta and crostini. To achieve this texture, high-quality pork cuts such as ham and shoulder are used, along with a generous amount of pancetta, which is naturally rich in fat. The selected cuts are then ground three times using increasingly fine discs, creating a product that is aged yet retains its deliciously soft consistency.

Ciauscolo pairs well with a wine that complements its delicate and fresh flavour. An Orvieto Classico, a dry white wine that pleasantly contrasts the sweetness of ciauscolo without overpowering its taste. For a bolder pairing with a red wine, you can opt for an Umbrian Pinot Nero, which offers refined and harmonious notes that pair beautifully with the unique texture of this cured meat.

Sanguinaccio is one of those norcineria products that perfectly embodies the saying “Nothing is wasted from the pig”.

Created to make use of pig’s blood, it is enriched with a variety of ingredients that vary depending on the recipe, such as diced pork fat, breadcrumbs, pine nuts, raisins, orange peel, cocoa, sugar and a pinch of salt.

After being prepared, the mixture is stuffed into casings and boiled until it achieves a pudding-like consistency. Sanguinaccio can be eaten immediately after cooking, usually cut into slices and sautéed in a pan with a little sugar to enhance the flavour. Today it is an almost forgotten product; however, it is still made in some areas of Umbria and Marche, especially during the Carnival season. Curiously, the modern version more commonly found, while retaining its original name, does not include the ingredient that inspired it.

The spicy and sweet notes of sanguinaccio pair well with fortified wines made from dried grapes such as Sagrantino Passito, a classic choice where the wine’s bold taste enhances the complexity of the cured meat, or Smoked Vinosanto wine of the upper Tiber valley, which adds its unmistakable smoky aftertaste. Alternatively, a Grechetto Amabile offers a perfect play of contrasts with sanguinaccio, especially when served warm and lightly sweetened.