Spirituality
Places of worship

7 Umbrian Devils

A unique itinerary to discover devils and demons in Umbrian art.

Those who think of Umbria as an exclusive land of saints and blesseds will be disappointed this time.

Devils and demons are also present in the territory; Umbrian references to the devil are found in some place names (such as Casa del Diavolo, a hamlet of Perugia, or Tane del Diavolo, karstic caves near Parrano, in the province of Terni). The great massif of the Sibillini Mountains is full of references of a 'devilish' nature: Fossa dell'Inferno, Gola dell'infernaccio, Grotta del Diavolo, Passo del Diavolo, Pizzo del Diavolo and so on.

The very long cultural tradition associated with these places labels them as the favourite haunts of demons and witches, the most famous of which is certainly the Apennine Sibyl, recounted in the early 15th century by Andrea da Barberino in Guerrin Meschino, who places her in an unspecified cave in the heart of the mountain of the same name. The legend was taken up by the French poet Antoine De la Sale, in a collection entitled La Salade, where he recounts his journey to Mount Sibilla near Montemonaco, carried out in 1420 at the behest of Princess Agnese di Borbone, who was greatly intrigued by the tales linked to the mystery of the 'infernal' cave.

The devil is not as ugly as he is painted, the saying goes. Demonic representations of various kinds are also very present in art. In this connection, we propose here a singular itinerary, that of seven 'devilish' figures depicted in the area, which certainly invite you to visit them in person.

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Stage 1
Church of San Pietro in Perugia - Canvas by Antonio Vassilacchi

The famous canvas, measuring almost 90 square metres, placed on the counter façade of the church of San Pietro in Perugia: the Apotheosis of the Benedictine Order painted in 1592 by Antonio Vassilacchi known as l'Aliense, depicts venerables, pontiffs cardinals, bishops, abbots and members of other monastic orders linked to the saint of Norcia. Staring closely at the canvas, the shaded gaps between the figures of the religious change into two enormous slits: the eyes of an unclean beast that seem to challenge the visitor.

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Stage 2
Lower Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi - Last Judgement by Sermei

The apse of the Lower Church of St Francis contains the large painting attributed to Cesare Sermei of 1623. The upper part of the fresco is dedicated to the vision of the Judge and the heavenly court, while the space between the second and third window is occupied by Lucifer, the King of Hell, with a goatee on his chin, horns, ears and feral nails. Chains lock his neck and ankles, binding him eternally to a large rock. He angrily handles the snakes that wrap around his body. The only comfort he has at his disposal is to use the body or back of the damned as a stool.

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Upper Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi - Death of St. Francis by Giotto

In the twentieth scene of the Life of St. Francis, painted by Giotto in the Upper Basilica of Assisi, there is the profile of a demon, with two dark horns, emerging from the clouds suspended between the scene of Francis' death, below, and the scene of the assumption of his soul into heaven. Can you see it?

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Stage 4
Church of San Pietro in Spoleto - Bas-reliefs on the façade

In the lower part of the façade of the church of San Pietro in Spoleto, on either side of the central entrance portal, are two series of splendid figured bas-reliefs contained within rectangular panels. On the left from top to bottom is the Death of the Just, among the best on the entire façade: St. Peter frees the just man from his chains; the scales weighing his soul hang on St. Michael the Archangel's side, but a demon, displaying a scroll on which is written DOLEO Q(UIA) AN(TE) E(RAT) MEUS, I grieve because before it was mine, attempts to steal on the weight by lowering the scales to his side and is punished by St. Peter with a blow of the key; repentance, even at the point of death, saves the man's soul.

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Stage 5
Church of San Francesco in Montefalco - Madonna del Soccorso fresco

In the Church of San Francesco in Montefalco, a beautiful fresco recently attributed to Tiberio d'Assisi (1510) depicts the 'Madonna del Soccorso'. The subject, according to a customary iconography of the time, depicts a kneeling mother begging the Virgin to save her son, whom the devil has taken possession of. The Virgin intervenes by threatening the devil with a stick and drawing the child to her, who clings to her robe in search of protection.

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Stage 6
Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta in Orvieto - Bas-reliefs on the façade

The splendid bas-reliefs on the façade of Orvieto Cathedral attract thousands of tourists every year. The fourth bas-relief depicts a recurring theme in the cathedral's artwork: the Last Judgement with images of the damned and the elect and the resurrection of the dead.

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Stage 7
Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta in Orvieto - Chapel of San Brizio

The theme of the Last Judgement is also beautifully depicted in the frescoes by Luca Signorelli (1499-1502) in the Chapel of San Brizio with apocalyptic scenes and the resurrection of the flesh. In the fresco of the Preaching of the Antichrist, the false Messiah stands on a pedestal in the foreground, preaching to the crowd. He resembles Jesus in features, but is moved by the Devil who suggests words in his ear and guides his gestures like a puppet.

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